Lugano between two mountains: the bay from above and below.

Lugano sits on the lake of the same name, right by the Italian border, but it is already Switzerland: the language is Italian, the currency the Swiss franc. Its bay has a clear shape, framed by two mountains facing each other: Monte Brè to the east and Monte San Salvatore to the west. Understand those two points and you understand the city, because each shows the lake in a different way.

The centre on foot

The centre is walkable. Start at Piazza della Riforma, the heart of the city, and climb to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo. Then head down Via Nassa, the street of arcades and shops, to the lakefront. Along the shore stands the LAC, the city's cultural centre, and next to it the church of Santa Maria degli Angioli.

On the other side of the centre lies Parco Ciani, on the lakeshore, with Villa Ciani and its collections. This is the place for the morning: trees, lawns and the water a few steps away.

Monte Brè, the sunny side

The Monte Brè funicular has run since 1908 and leaves from Cassarate, in the Suvigliana district. The summit is over 900 metres up, and the view runs from the lake to the Alps of the Valais. A short walk from the top station is Brè village, closed to traffic, with lanes and stairways.

One of the area's best walks starts in Brè: you head down towards the lake following the signs for Gandria. Allow half a day, lunch included.

San Salvatore, the cone on the lake

On the opposite side stands San Salvatore, whose cone shape is one of Lugano's most recognisable sights. The funicular leaves from Paradiso. You can walk there along the lakefront, about two kilometres from Parco Ciani, or ride bus number 1 from Piazza Marconi in a few minutes. From the top, on a clear day, you can see the snow-capped Alps to the north.

Walkers can hike up in about an hour and a half, or come down the far side towards Carona.

Gandria and the Olive Trail

Gandria is a fishing village built vertically into the rock, about five kilometres east of town. You can reach it by boat, by car or on foot along the Sentiero dell'Olivo, the Olive Trail, which runs beside the lake through the olive groves. Walking there and coming back by boat is the best way to see it.

The UNESCO site to the south

Between the lake's two southern arms rises Monte San Giorgio, 1,097 metres, a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site for the Middle Triassic marine fossils found in its rocks.

How long you need

In one day you can do the centre in the morning, then Parco Ciani and one of the two mountains in the afternoon. Two days add the other mountain and Gandria. The boats linking the lakeside villages run from April to October.

What nobody tells you

The two mountains are not the same view twice. Brè looks at the city from the north-east and gives you the village and the path to Gandria; San Salvatore looks from the south-west and gives you the Alps. If you can only pick one, pick by time of day: late afternoon is best for both.